Star Tribune

When it comes to weekly stops at Bluebird Boutique, Amanda Rose doesn't let a little thing like being 8 1/2 months pregnant stop her. The Edina resident simply asked Allison Mowery, co-owner of the shop, to be her proxy body. On a mid-August Wednesday morning at the store she owns with Sacha Martin, Mowery slipped off her top layer and slipped on an extra-long oatmeal hued sweater with oversized dolman sleeves and a cut-out design on the front. With their dogs - Mowery's French Brittany, Bella, and Martin's Vizsla, Aiya - scurrying around, this is a lot of activity for the 1,000-square-foot boutique near 50th St. and France Av. S. "This is a medium," Mowery said. "I think you need a small." Martin agreed. "For later ..." Rose said, cheerily referring to her round belly. "Even pregnant, I found a way to shop here. I love the girls, my kids love the dogs and I'm kind of partial to good taste," Rose said. Any fashion-savvy woman would love to share a closet with Martin and Mowery, who dress almost exclusively in their own merchandise. Since opening, they've become a neighborhood favorite among women in their 30s and 40s like Rose. Not only do they have a style that regulars want to emulate, they also have the ear of some of the country's elite designers. By mid-August, Martin and Mowery had about 25 to 30 percent of their fall merchandise on hand to prepare for their two biggest months of business: August and September. All those skinny black premium jeans (from $160), long-sleeve T-shirts (from $24), oversized tops (at every price point) and vintage jewelry (under $50) on the racks had been carefully selected by the owners almost six months earlier. It's a sophisticated, chic hipster's dream wardrobe. "Our customers are people who live close and love clothes - and if you're into clothes, you're going to come find us," Mowery said. . A winter shopping spree

The twice-a-year Coterie show, held in February (collections for fall) and September (collections for the following spring) in New York City features about 1,350 vendors and is attended by some 15,000 people, including buyers, boutique owners (the proprietors of Minneapolis' Ivy and Josi Wert also often attend) and representatives from mega-retailers such as Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Bendels. Some booths are like miniature, fully decorated boutiques. Designer Nanette Lepore's booth mimicked the English wallpaper that was part of her runway show the week before. "It's the highest-end show in the country," said Coleman McCartan, public relations director for ENK (www.enkshows.com), which produces Coterie. "Every designer has to submit samples and go through a screening process." Martin and Mowery went in February for two of the three days to do most of their buying for a season. On their first day there, they sat in the Mint booth, watching a company representative parade the entire fall collection. Mint is the most expensive brand Bluebird carries: Tops are $300, sweaters $400. To check the fit, Martin tried on a few of the sweaters. Then she and Mowery sat down and filled out an order form. The two don't waver or even really discuss what they like: They just buy. Even though it was the middle of winter, they were well-versed on the next fall's trends. "It's all black and gray with red accents. Oversized and longer on top and skinny on the bottom," Martin said. "Eighties in a good way," Mowery added. "Cowboy boots are done," Martin said, even as she was wearing a version of cowboy boots. "Round toe platforms, no more pointy toe."

Partners in retail Both Mowery and Martin are Minneapolis natives. Martin went to Edison High School and Hamline University, where she got a degree in criminal justice. Mowery was graduated from Edina High School and has a marketing degree from Boston College. They met in 1999 when they were both managers at the Banana Republic near Bluebird. They also worked together at high-end boutique Grethen House (around the corner). When Mowery lived in Chicago for a few years, she was exposed to such contemporary boutiques as Etre in Old Town, where she worked. She moved back to Minnesota three years ago, teamed with Martin and decided to open a store. Within a week, they found the space and Bluebird opened July 30, 2004. They came up with "Bluebird" after a scouting trip to Chicago during which they bandied about words they liked. "We liked it because of the bluebird of happiness," Martin explained.

A coterie of fashion friends Martin and Mowery have become favorites among vendors at Coterie shows. Booth-hopping is more like visiting old friends than work. At the Amo & Bretti booth, they met up with husband-and-wife team Amy Krofchick and Brett Perkins. Their booth was filled with gray, cream and black cashmere sweaters. "They're our age; our contemporaries," Perkins said of Martin and Mowery. "We've called them for advice, just because we like their aesthetic." Martin and Mowery carry denim by Citizens of Humanity and Habitual, but while at Coterie they went looking for Deener, a new premium-jeans line. At the Deener booth, Martin noted that the women presenting the line each had a high belt on. They placed an order for one of each style they liked in waist sizes 26-30. The pair met designer David Lim and sales rep Grace Lyu at Kasil, another brand dominated by denim. Mowery and Martin relaxed and chatted before looking at the new clothes. The hot new item at Kasil was the "schoodie," a scarf/hoodie combination. The Bluebird proprietors ordered a few. "I want to see the Devon in skinny," Martin said of a Kasil jeans design that sold well last year. "I'm not letting anyone buy flared." For them, the designer agreed to do just that.

Sara Glassman - 612-673-7310

A LITTLE BIRD TOLD US For fall, here are five favorite trends of Sacha Martin and Allison Mowery of Bluebird Boutique near 50th St. and France Av. S. in Edina. 1 Skinny-leg jeans. Boot-leg and wide-leg have been banished. Look for lots of Lycra - the key to getting denim to fit like leggings. 2 Black and grey denim. Colors are subdued this fall. Jeans range from light grays to [unkdc]ber black. 3 Oversized tops. If you're going for tight pants, loosen up those shirts. Tops should feel almost like dresses. And like the denim, they're primarily black, gray and neutral. 4 Wide, high-waisted belts. It's a do-it-yourself empire waist. Belts get tight right at the bra line and tops should then skim the body. 5 Gold jewelry. The old idea in accessories was to layer lots of jewelry. New this season is to have one dramatic piece and layer the clothes instead.